Hello Everyone,
Let’s talk about winter coats. Now, I am a person who does not keep multiple coats in their wardrobe. The reason…….fit. Finding a coat for my body type and height, well just say can be a part time job. Now this is not a complaint, just a fact. So with that in mind, I just keep two coats. I have an everyday and a dress coat. I wear my coats until wear and tear begin to reveals itself. Then I go on the journey of finding another coat. However last year, I decided no more. It was time for me to make my own coat.
Over the years, I have collected coat patterns that consist of vintage, classic and modern styles. However for my first coat, I wanted simple lines and a design that would be easy for me to make my standard adjustments. So Butterick OOP B4665 was the winner. This pattern has princess seams and an A-line style. Perfect!!!!!…….this style is great for my current body type and makes a FBA (full bust adjustment) a dream. I also decided to use my sewing project planner. I purchased Colette’s sewing planner years ago, but never put it to use until last year. I have found using a sewing planner to be very useful for me. I’m able to keep track of adjustments, changes, supplies and make notes. I was disappointed to learn that they are no longer selling this sewing planner.
Most of the supplies for my coat, I had on hand. I choose a red wool melton from my stash. Interfacing and underlining fabric, I keep in stock. I decided to get a little jazzy by using a linen floral for my under collar from fabric.com. This also helped to reduce some bulk. Now, there were two decision I had to make and I got on my own nerves trying to decide. First, whether to use Bemberg or Silk lining. Second, whether to use silk thread as recommended for wool melton. After adding 2 gray hairs to my head, I decided on silk for both.
I feel that I spent most of my time getting a good fit. There were two muslins. I made a full bust adjustment, shorten the shoulder length, petite the pattern, sway back adjustment and added width to the hips and arms. The most challenging was the swayback adjustment. The back pattern is comprise of a back that is on the fold and 2 side backs. Shortening the back without distorting it, meant leaving some length or make the back 2 pieces. I wasn’t sure how having four seams on the back would look, so I left a little length.
The tailoring style was a combination of traditional and modern. I knew that I did not need to underline the wool, but I choose to anyway. I love the feel underlining gives to a garment. But this also served another purpose. I used fusible interfacing for my whole coat. So, the underlining was a barrier if you will, between my wool and the interfacing.
I added a few more touches to my coat. The pattern has a inseam pocket. I added a facing to the pocket so that the pocket lining would not be seen. I also added decorative stitching to the lining to aid in securing the center back pleats. The pattern did not call for top stitching, but I top stitched the collar and front.
There are a few items I would have done differently. Although my keyhole buttonholes look good, I wish I hadn’t gave in to frustration and continued practicing a bound buttonhole. Also, I would use a medium weight fabric for an under collar. My linen was on the lighter side. I channel stitched my under collar to added more support.
I am very happy with my coat. This has been a journey, that I would go on again and again. When I put on my finished coat for the first time, a few tears came to my eyes. I made a coat that fits me in every way, from my style to my body. It’s a reminder of how much control we have when we make something with our hands. We have the freedom to create what fits us.
Now off the take her to the cleaners for a proper pressing.
Until next time…………Keep creating what makes you happy!!!
