Another Color Block Dress Finished – V1329

Well, I was able to complete my dress. Although there were a few fitting challenges, I am happy with the way it turned out. Here are the details.
Pattern Description: Close-fitting, lined dress (fitted through hips) has yokes, right front with pleats, back princess seams, and invisible zipper. 
Fabric: Black and Gingham Check Italian Linen  – Waetcher’s Fine Fabrics
              Deluxe Tricot Interfacing  – Fashion Sewing Supply (absolutely love their interfacing)
              Black Bemberg Rayon Lining – in statsh
Pattern Adjustments:  Wow, where do I begin?  It took two muslin’s for me to get the fit right on this dress.  The first muslin I cut a 20 the in shoulders, arms and graded to a 24 plus an inch in the hips.  I made a sway back and petite adjustments.  That did not work. The top portion was too big, the girls were suffocating, the waist was tight and the hips spot on. I decided to start again from scratch.  I knew I had to let the waist out, that was obvious.  But the challenge, how to make a FBA and why was the shoulders and arm so big.  I had the same problem with my red dress, but I attributed it to the waist being too large and made the adjustment in the waist.

I have been reading about bra making. Yep, I am planning to take the plunge.  I will tell you about that in a later post.  Well based on the information, I am wearing the wrong bra size.  I have been measured, but evidently it’s not right.  So with this new information, this means I am an 18 not a 20 in the top.  Now, how do I make the FBA?  I have about 3 books in my library on fit, but I  tend to gravitate to “The Perfect Fit, by Singer“. ( I have the complete library.)  I decided to use the FBA method  for princess seam since the right front piece was cut that way.  I  made another muslin, cutting an 18 in the top,  22 in the waist grading to 24 plus an inch in the hips and a FBA. Voila, it worked.  The wrong bra size, who would have thought?

Another fit issue pop up after I completed the shell of my dress.  The dress was big around the neck.  Back to the “The Perfect Fit” I went.  Discovered, I have a slightly rounded back.  To correct, I took the shoulder seam in 1/4 inch on each side.  So going forward, I will need to make that pattern adjustment.  That also explains some fit issues I have had in the past.  
Sewing Techniques:  On this dress, I decided to underline with tricot interfacing instead of organza to help with the wrinkling.  I reduced the neckline and arm area by an 1/8 on lining pieces. That helps to keep the lining from peeking through.  I also decided to try block fusing for the first time.  I have to tell you, I’m hooked on block fusing.  But here’s a tip.  Remove you cutting mat before you do it.  I didn’t and warped my cutting mat. ARRRRGH!!!    After petiting, my dress was shorter than I like.  So I added a hem facing.  I also peg the my dress by an inch to keep from looking boxy.
Conclusion:  I like the pattern and the directions were very easy.  However, I do think the dress runs short.  I would definitely make this dress again.  I’m thinking about another version with short sleeves. 
What’s next?  Good question.  I am looking at completing another UFO.  I have been talking about a white blouse for a while.  It’s been cut out since last year, so that will be my project for this upcoming week. 
I’m in the process of planning my September projects.  A bra is on the list so far.  I’m also working on what pieces I want to add to my wardrobe for the Fall.   Wow, I feel like I am finally getting into a sewing groove.  That’s a good feeling.
Well, until next time………keep sewing!!

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  1. Dress looks great on you! It was worth two muslins–I'm sure you didn't feel that way in the muslin stage, but the effort paid off. I love the color block contrast. Can't wait to read about your bra journey. I've put that on my roster for this winter when I'm housebound :).

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